John Lobb is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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