The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as a defining name in English shoemaking.
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